Kyaiktyio & Golden Rock

Golden Rock,  Kyaiktiyo

My Burmese friend Judith and her neice Pei Pei and myself decided we needed to see this Golden Rock place for ourselves, so we got up late 07.00 and took a taxi to the Aung Mingalar bus station. The taxi cost 4000 kyats but that was after lots of forceful negotiating by the ever assertive Judith. On arrival at Aung Mingalara bus terminal as always we were met by two young boys running alongside the car, this was to guide us to their bus company and so they get a commission. The bus to Kinpun was 5000 kyats (5$) for me, and 3000 kyats for my friends. It's always cheaper for locals no matter what it's for.

Sunset on Goden Rock

The bus was not the best by todays standards, but a huge improvement on pre 2011 buses.  God be with the days of knees up to your chin, backside dead on a wooden bench, surrounded by boxes, bananas, and all other sundry in a windowless bus so that the mosquitoes could have a field day. That is one part of this huge change in Burma I won't miss.

Well the bus journey took about 4 hours with one short break en route to pee and buy snacks.

When we alighted the bus in the small square of Kinpun we were greeted by the usual host of guesthouse agents. At first we headed with the Lonely Planet recommendation with a young Swiss couple, but then a fast talking agent from the Sea Sar guesthouse arrived and made us an offer we couldn't refuse...15$ for the 3 of us in one room (no breakfast). Judith Pei Pei and I were happy happy! And so were the Swiss! The room had air con, it was clean and the tropical shrubs and scented trees around the bungalow were the cherry. 

We dropped the bags and headed straight to the pick up station where we were so tightly crammed that it must have looked like a Mexican wave every time we took a bend which was every ten seconds or so. 

The rain came down with a vengeance so we stopped in a shelter until t eased off. It started again when we were walking up from the pick-up drop off point but it was warm and we dried off quickly.

Crows Beak

So having spent several months in Burma on previous visits I'd heard lots about the Golden Rock, perhaps too much. I was almost disappointed as t wasn't as dramatic as I'd come to believe. I got over it and put my camera to my eye and took about 100 images. I also walked down the other side to where the crows beak is. 

This is a holy place so I'm told that looks like the beak of a crow, formed by two rocks. Locals were throwing coins up into the beak so that they'd come back as Robert Redford or Gina Lollobrigida.

On the way down I met two young men with a dead python snake which they were very proud of. This was for their medicine man. Mr medicine man shouted no photo, and gestured handcuffs suggesting an arrest if the photos were seen. I took two anyway.

The highlight (for me) was going back down just after sunset. Some local boys were singing, the stars were out and everyone was in a jovial good mood and it made for a special trip back down the hill. I've seen the Golden Rock, and I guess you've got to see it once even if you're not a buddhist.

Next stop  Mawlamyine (Moulmein) Burma's 4th largest city.

Burma boats

Well all good things end, and they also begin again anew. And that will keep me going until I get back "home" to Burma next year. This time I stayed South, I stayed longer than usual and most in Yangon thanks to my dear friends cooking too many fine dinners. My girlfriend saw me on Skype today and said I need a diet. She's right! I've discovered so much more good food this time. My love of boats and being on the water (especially in Burma) was the catalyst for heading to the shipping office to find a boat to shack up on for 24 hours. I was disappointed to learn that the boat to Pathein has been shelved since last August, but I know I can sleep on anything going anywhere and that's what my friend Judith explained to the baffled shipping clerk. He eventually allowed me to buy a ticket to Myaungmya which is not mentioned in any guide books so that was a plus.

I wanted to do the same thing...chillin.

 The boat was packed to the hilt. Boxes and engines of all kinds everywhere, with us moveable cargoes laying nervously below them. They did fall without injury.  Leaving Yangon, passing the sleeping retired ships in the mist and watching the rapidly descending sun make a silhouette of the decaying and new skyline of Yangon.

I settled into my spot on deck with my Chinese carpet laid out, only half mind! No space. Not being Burmese I had to turn more often than a sausage being barbecued and my hips are still feeling it.
This boat trip takes 24/5 hours, it's 2 captains are young agile men who steer with their feet. They were still in great form after 12 hours on the wheel thanks to the betel nut and leaf concoction. The sunrise once I got over myself was peacefully stunning with the usual sunrise pastels diffused with mist.

Collecting hay for goats

Being the only lupu (white man) I received glances and smiles constantly as well as fruit and offers of homemade food which was always delicious. Which reminds me the food on this boat was Top! Especially the huge prawns straight from the river. One of the nicest meals I've ever eaten. Really! And all for less than a €!
The passing landscape and villages are what I enjoy. Everyone has a boat out of necessity. It felt like Venice at times. The river snaked around, and the boat slowed often to a snails pace. The huge sky with it's dramatic cumulus clouds reaching up into the stratosphere almost made for some great images.
The boat made 3 stops to drop off people and cargo, and I was happy to get off in the end. The town was lively, and the bustle to offer me a taxi to Pathein was as always lively. I'm so happy to have learned a few phrases in Burmese to stop them in their tracks. The first hotel didn't take foreigners, so I took a bike to a motel outside town. It was overpriced and the bed no softer than the deck of the boat, but I was tired and gave up haggling quicker than normal.
I spent two days here and enjoyed them. I took a bike into the rice fields and met some great kids and families. Never found the famous crocodiles or the perfumed rice. Got the rice on the market afterwards.

As they don't get many tourists I got lots of attention. Parents would hit their children to let them know a foreigner was coming. Often they would shout out "hello" and I'd reply with "mingalabah" and that would get a great laugh.
This boat trip is not for the faint hearted but it's well worth the trouble. Do bring a guide to help you locate the right boat, and the right person to pay. It's a busy and stressful time for them so don't get in the way.

 Travel respectfully.
Teach them english if you have time.