Burma boats

Well all good things end, and they also begin again anew. And that will keep me going until I get back "home" to Burma next year. This time I stayed South, I stayed longer than usual and most in Yangon thanks to my dear friends cooking too many fine dinners. My girlfriend saw me on Skype today and said I need a diet. She's right! I've discovered so much more good food this time. My love of boats and being on the water (especially in Burma) was the catalyst for heading to the shipping office to find a boat to shack up on for 24 hours. I was disappointed to learn that the boat to Pathein has been shelved since last August, but I know I can sleep on anything going anywhere and that's what my friend Judith explained to the baffled shipping clerk. He eventually allowed me to buy a ticket to Myaungmya which is not mentioned in any guide books so that was a plus.

I wanted to do the same thing...chillin.

 The boat was packed to the hilt. Boxes and engines of all kinds everywhere, with us moveable cargoes laying nervously below them. They did fall without injury.  Leaving Yangon, passing the sleeping retired ships in the mist and watching the rapidly descending sun make a silhouette of the decaying and new skyline of Yangon.

I settled into my spot on deck with my Chinese carpet laid out, only half mind! No space. Not being Burmese I had to turn more often than a sausage being barbecued and my hips are still feeling it.
This boat trip takes 24/5 hours, it's 2 captains are young agile men who steer with their feet. They were still in great form after 12 hours on the wheel thanks to the betel nut and leaf concoction. The sunrise once I got over myself was peacefully stunning with the usual sunrise pastels diffused with mist.

Collecting hay for goats

Being the only lupu (white man) I received glances and smiles constantly as well as fruit and offers of homemade food which was always delicious. Which reminds me the food on this boat was Top! Especially the huge prawns straight from the river. One of the nicest meals I've ever eaten. Really! And all for less than a €!
The passing landscape and villages are what I enjoy. Everyone has a boat out of necessity. It felt like Venice at times. The river snaked around, and the boat slowed often to a snails pace. The huge sky with it's dramatic cumulus clouds reaching up into the stratosphere almost made for some great images.
The boat made 3 stops to drop off people and cargo, and I was happy to get off in the end. The town was lively, and the bustle to offer me a taxi to Pathein was as always lively. I'm so happy to have learned a few phrases in Burmese to stop them in their tracks. The first hotel didn't take foreigners, so I took a bike to a motel outside town. It was overpriced and the bed no softer than the deck of the boat, but I was tired and gave up haggling quicker than normal.
I spent two days here and enjoyed them. I took a bike into the rice fields and met some great kids and families. Never found the famous crocodiles or the perfumed rice. Got the rice on the market afterwards.

As they don't get many tourists I got lots of attention. Parents would hit their children to let them know a foreigner was coming. Often they would shout out "hello" and I'd reply with "mingalabah" and that would get a great laugh.
This boat trip is not for the faint hearted but it's well worth the trouble. Do bring a guide to help you locate the right boat, and the right person to pay. It's a busy and stressful time for them so don't get in the way.

 Travel respectfully.
Teach them english if you have time.